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ERS-110, 111 |
ERS-210[A], 220[A] |
Programming AIBO with: YART, RCodePlus OpenR SDK 
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ERS-311[B], 312[B], 31L |
ERS7 |
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Lesser Robots: Pleo ( RoboSapien ICybie ) Game Hacks: Nintendo Wii Nintendo DS ( PSP ) |
Email: aibopet@aibohack.com | ||||
ERS-210 Neck Repair (how to fix "DHS" yourself) |
2) Pull off the bottom assembly, inserting a screw driver in
direction of the arrow below.
Be careful not to pull it apart too far or you will break the wiring.
3) Pull off the metal bracket (marked below, location seen
above) to AIBOs front.
4) Unplug both connectors, separate bottom assembly.
5) Seperate the two clevis mountings
6) By bending the cover (don't break it!) pull out the upper
clevis mounting, marked with an arrow below.
7) By pushing on the white plasic part, marked with an arrow
above, pull out the lower clevis mounting/motor assembly. (Again
you have to bend the cover on the lower side.)
8) Important: Mark the lower side of the white plastic part!
You will have to reassemble it exact the same position later!
9) Pull the whte plastic part off the axle (These are TWO
white parts, should they separate pull off BOTH)
10) Press the motor through the clevis mounting (from the
bottom to top). You will have to feed the flexible print through
the hole!
11) Remove the top cover (black) of the potentiometer assembly
12) Remove the slider of the variable resistor (TAKE NOTICE OF
THE POSITION FOR REASSEMBLY)!
13) Unsolder the flexible print on the MOTOR side (NOT on the
potentiometer side)
14) Carefully remove the variable resistor printed circuit
board from the motor
15) Pull out the axle FIRMLY. (You don't have to remove the
sawing ring!, The top cover of the gear will come out with the
axle! Don't loose any gear wheels!)
16) Now you can take the clutch assembly apart (see the parts
on the next picture)
17) Clean the three parts of the clutch assembly carefully
with alcohol and glue them together.
21) Glue the variable resistor print back in.
(BE CAREFUL NOT TO SPILL GLUE ON THE RESISTIVE AREA)!
22) Press the slider of the variable resistor in again (SAME
POSITION AS YOU REMOVED IT):
23) Glue the black cover on again. Press the white plastic
parts on the axle (AGAIN IN THE SAME POSITION AS REMOVED)!
24) Press the motor into the clevis mounting (INSERT THE FLEXIBLE PRINT THROUGH THE HOLE FIRST)!
25) Solder the flexible print to the motor connections again.
26) Insert the lower clevis mounting w. motor into the head
assembly by bending the cover (DON'T BREAK IT)!
27) Insert the upper clevis mounting again by bending the cover!
29) Reassemble the metal bracket
30) Reconnect the flexi-print (below the black insulating
plate) and the head-connector (above the insulating plate) to the
bottom assembly
31) Reassemble bottom with the clevis mountings..
32) Reassemble the cover. Insert and tighten the 8 screws.
(The 4 screws, fitting in an angle of 45 degrees are the longer ones!)
33) Put the head assemby on your Aibo and do final check!
34) If it works again, drink a cold beer!
1) motor 2) white plastic gear 3) motor main gear 4) metallic gear with 2 levels 5) white plastic gears holder 6) white plastic flat gears (x3) 7) metallic gears holder 8) large white plastic gears (x3) 9) metallic outer clutch 10) black plastic slipping ring 11) metallic axle/inner clutch Rem : 9-10-11 are the parts to be glued together to avoid DHS (use cyanoacrilat type glue) 12) black plastic cover (may be glued by the excess of glue from part 15 to the main body of the gearbox/motor) use a cutter to carefully remove the glue 13) metallic ring 14) C ring 15) variable resistor plate with plastic conductor ribbon (to be glued on the same 3 visible points again after) 16) white plastic contacts holder/end gear holder 17) black plastic gearbox cover 18) end gear
